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How to: Main-Dish Salads
Follow the formula
 
Wednesday, Jul 23, 2008 - 12:06 AM Updated: 07:03 PM
 
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By JANN MALONE
TIMES-DISPATCH STAFF WRITER
Photo SLIDESHOW: Watch and learn how to make an entree salad with Chez Foushee

When we think about building main-dish salads, our feet have this way of taking us to Chez Foushee.

Why? Because the restaurant turns out an array of spectacular ones. There's Steamed Pork and Shrimp Pot Stickers over Mixed Greens topped with Asian Dressing, Peanuts, Red Peppers and Crispy Noodles.

Or how about Sliced Grilled Chicken over Salad Greens, garnished with Roasted Peppers, Chickpeas, Carrots, Asiago Cheese and dressed with an Olive-Oil Vinaigrette?

Then there's the salad that illustrates today's how-to lesson: Seared Jerk Tilapia on Grilled Flatbread topped with Mixed Greens, Tropical Relish, Lime Aioli and Grape Tomatoes.

Today's teacher is Matt Greene, who took over as chef about five months ago after a stint as sous chef at Helen's.

"It's always nice to go seasonal," he said. "Right now on the spinach salad we have a spicy peach vinaigrette and blueberries, which are in season.

"Summer is great for salads," Greene said, "because you just have so much."

"You want to have a contrast of hot and cold, soft and crunchy. Then a sweet and savory combination is always good to give depth."

Here, the fish is hot; the salad, cold. The fish is soft; the grilled flatbread, crunchy. Sweet flavors comes from the raisins in the relish and the cinnamon and allspice in the jerk seasoning, which almost caramelizes on the griddle. The flatbread, the rest of the relish and the fish provide savory tastes. In fact, "most parts of this dish are both sweet and savory."


BUILDING AN ENTREE SALAD: The formula
GREENS: Mixed Make them interesting, say, baby spinach or a nice mix of local lettuces.
PROTEIN: Seared tilapia with jerk seasonings that include cinnamon and allspice. Usually fish, chicken or beef.

STARCH
: Grilled flatbread Bread, croutons, toasted baguette slices, potatoes, chickpeas or other starchy beans, fried polenta. "It doesn't have to be bread, but it's very convenient for it to be bread. Toasting's a good way to get that crunchy texture."

AN EXTRA VEGETABLE BESIDES GREENS
: Tropical relish with tomatoes, scallions, raisins, capers and cilantro. "You could have a vegetarian entrée salad, but you need to have a focal point, like a piece of grilled eggplant or portobello mushroom, something that's hearty and satisfying that can be the focus, as opposed to a bunch of vegetables."

FAT
: Lime aioli. "The fat is what's going to make you feel full at the end of the meal. It's going to give you that satisfaction."

ACID: Vinaigrette on the greens. "Acid gives any dish depth. You've got the rich fat and an acid to cut it, so it gets both sides of the spectrum," says chef Matt Greene.

ADD A LITTLE EXTRA: A slice of lemon makes a pretty garnish and adds a a pop of flavor to the fish.

If you go

Chez Foushee is downtown at 203 N. Foushee St. at the corner of Grace Street.
Hours: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. for takeout, 11:302:30 for lunch in the dining room. Open for dinner on First Fridays.
Phone: (804) 648-3225
Menus and more:
www.chezfoushee.com
 

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